Forget the overblown wines of yesterday, modern Australian Chardonnay is lean, sleek and tasty. Or is it? Simon Woods investigates... McWilliams Mount Pleasant Isabelle Chardonnay 2010 Tumbarumba, New South Wales | Thorn Clarke Mount Crawford Chardonnay 2010, Eden Valley | Heggies Vineyard Chardonnay 2010, Eden Valley | Yalumba Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2008, Eden Valley | Yalumba FDW7c Chardonnay 2009, Adelaide Hills